Focusing on an Oxford University student, Oliver Quick becomes fixated on a charming and popular fellow student at his university named Felix, who later offers him to spend the summer in Saltburn. Saltburn, directed by Emerald Fennell, stars Jacob Elordi and Barry Kheogan. The film opened up early 2000’s fashion to the world, immersing viewers and fans into the 2000’s aesthetic. Scenery in the film was shot in Oxford and North Hampshire, England.
Fashion plays an enormous role in the film—not only to remind us of the “old money” vibe, but also to emphasize Quick’s outsider status. Within the first five minutes, we hear a classmate say Quick shouldn’t be invited to a party with the posh students because he “looks like he shops at Oxfam.” Upon arriving at Saltburn, Quick is swept into a decadent, deranged, and very well-dressed world, where dinners are black tie, the butlers wear fine livery, and vintage Miu Miu shoes are worn to play drunken postprandial tennis. As they transition into the Saltburn setting, you see all of the flashy, stylish pieces that were brought into the movie. High-end designers were featured, including Alexander Mcqueen, Chanel, Marc Jacobs, Valentino, Dolce and Gabbana and so many others.
Picking the 2000’s theme might have been a little risky at the time. Why? Because in the UK, 2000’s trends haven’t hit yet. The UK is still diving into the 1990s so finding the perfect 2000’s pieces for the file were found on Ebay, Depop, and Craigslist. Using 2000s icons like Amy Whinehouse and Kate Moss to base off of was a big help, working with a number of brands. Jenny Packham was very generous. Both Pamela and Venetia (Carey Mulligan’s and Alison Oliver’s characters) wore Christopher Kane from the 2007 catwalk. Venetia wore two Agent Provocateur pieces: a leopard-print bodysuit with a cowboy hat, and another bodysuit with stars on it.
Costume designer Sophie Canale raided her own early Facebook archives and gleaned inspiration from scions of the oldest money family in the UK: Prince Harry and Prince William, whose mid-aughts “relaxed cuts and silhouettes” Canale referenced heavily. She also dressed Felix in their preferred labels, like Abercrombie and Fitch rugby shirts and jeans, alongside polos by Tommy Hilfiger, Ralph Lauren, Dunhill, and Superdry. She used inspiration from old stars, trends and experience. Nailing her job on Saltburn with the delectable pieces reaching all the way back to the 90’s.
